Enamel is a kind of glass-like material, first appeared a few centuries ago, in the ancient Byzantine Empire left in ancient artifacts, there are many enamel vessels. It is closely linked with the jewelery and jewelery trade; and as a result, it has been used in watchmaking since the 15th century.
Enamel is a top-level decorative technique in Geneva since ancient times. Today's local enamelware is famous all over the world. From the beginning of the 17th century to the end of the 19th century, the large number of enamels used to decorate the case and the faceplate of the watch made it impressive that the enamel would not degenerate and degenerate, and its color and brightness never diminished even after centuries of inheritance , This feature is enough to make enamel listed as "eternal immortality" one of the material.
Although enamel is no longer the dominant decorative technique on 20th-century watches, it seems that enamel has also come to the Renaissance, and more and more people miss it and look forward to its rejuvenation. Earl has always focused on this unique decorative technique, because it created a unique effect, but also timeless.
Earl and enamel
Piaget is proud to introduce its unique range of Dragon and Phoenix watches, crafted using the grand feu enamel pride; this collection will be dedicated to the true watch connoisseurs.
Ming fire method using processes
Enamel is a mixture of glass, adding trace amounts of metal oxide, you can dyed the color. It shows an endless stream, endless colors, colors, it is different oxidized metal and enamel chemical effect after the result.
The most distinctive place of the Ming fire technique lies in its melting point which far exceeds normal enamel, up to 820 ° C to 850 ° C.
GRINDING
Enamel glaze raw materials are flaky or rough powder, the raw materials into a mortar made of mortar pounded into fine powder, and then wash away the barbed impurities in them; enamel glaze purity and purity will affect the final product Quality, washed and then dripped amount of nitric acid, completely dissolve any impurities in the glaze may affect the purity. Finally, you get a pure enamel glaze, which must be immersed in distilled water spare.
Packing (LAYING)
Choosing the right metal for the workpiece carcass is very important because the enamel can only adhere to the surface of copper, silver and gold. Earl of the pursuit of excellence is not compromise only use pure gold carcass, without any exception. Carbide requirements are absolutely clean, so before use must be soaked in sulfuric acid solution cleaning.
Depending on the thickness of the carcass, the counter-enamel must be applied first, and its role is to prevent the carcass from melting and melting during the firing process. Therefore, it is very important. After enamel masters began to fine brush dip plant glue and glaze, fill the carcass, and finally put the semi-finished products into the kiln firing.
FIRING
Enamels melt at kilns that exceed 800 ° C. At this temperature, the enamel melts in a very short time (40 to 60 seconds). Once liquid, the enamel will bond with the metal matrix. However, as the enamel will be reduced in volume during firing, the follow-up must be filled and fired several times before the color can reach the best condition.
Smoothing and smoothing (SMOOTHING AND GLAZING)
After firing is completed, the enamel will be higher than the carcass, it must use the millstone and water to polish the enamel layer, polish the enamel layer, but also the enamel surface atomization, so it had to go through a kiln burn , The surface sintered into bright, restored to the original bright luster.
This is the four main processes of the Great Fire Enamel method; mixed with different metal oxides, will generate two different enamels, the first is the opaque enamel, will make people can not see the carcass, and the other is Transparent enamel, through which you can still see the carcass. The latter can be used to cover engine-turned (also known as guilloché) or gold-engraved metal cases and backsheets; this decorative technique integrates enamel with golden sculptures using different enamel, Can provide vast and varied decorative effect.
Longfeng watch series blends the following superb enamel techniques:
Cloisonné enamel (CLOISONNÉ)
Piaget Altiplano 38mm watch
The filigree cloisonné technique uses gold wire to make enamelled cubicles on the carcass. The first step is to fold the pattern out of gold or silver. Earl's point of view is absolutely outstanding quality, so only the use of gold wire to produce the outline of the pattern, the entire pattern is completed, the enamel master will use a plant called glue called "tragacanth" immobilized gold wire, this glue in the kiln after burning will Disappear.
So the formation of a gold between the grid space, you can fill in different colors of glaze, glaze fill after firing, the kiln can burn process can be repeated, the deepening of the color of each grid, to the kiln Burning the final stage, you can smooth the enamel layer, the last time sintering bright surface.
There are many derivative techniques of this technique, called pliqueà jours approach is one, enamel coated thin copper tube, and then use a different acid to dissolve the copper tire, the result is left without a carcass attached The transparent enamel, it looks like colored windows moving the same.
Filled with enamel (CHAMPLEVÉ), or "tire enamel"
Piaget Polo floating tourbillon watch
The use of enamel (champlevé) technique, to fill enamel pattern engraved on the carcass, the formation of small concave grid, and then filled with enamel with a fine brush, and then repeated the firing process.
According to the design of the carved golden carved case or dial carcass and other carcass, leaving the outline of the pattern for the Yang Wen (protruding lines) were hollowed out of the groove (shade) and then filled with enamel glaze, The copy is called "taille d'épargne" in French, and its edges must be as sharp as possible. The golden carver must determine the depth and breadth of the feathers, empirically, with the intended effect.
And then heated to over 800 ° C, let the enamel melt; this method also need to burn many times, until the last polished and sintered bright process.
There must be close cooperation between the golden teacher and the enameler, and a high degree of creativity, since the skill of the two craftsmen has the same great influence on the work, especially when using transparent enamel techniques, usually to make the carcass Glyphs appear. At Piaget, the golden eagle master and the enamel master took a step further and worked closely together throughout the process, making sure that all the enamel that was delivered from the count was perfect.
Miniature enamel (MINIATURE ENAMELLING)
Piaget Protocole XXL watch incorporates enamel and microfilm enamel skills
Enamel, also known as painted enamelling, is the technique that tests the artist's talent and patience of an enamel technician. It must cover the entire metal matrix with an enamel (for example, a pocket watch cover, a bottom cover, or a face plate) After the system was made, the enamel layer on the metal carcass became a "canvas" painted with enamel, and the enamel master then hand-painted the pattern on the enameled carcass.
The enamelled enamel used in the microfilm enamel is thinner and the diluent used is oil-based rather than water. Microfiber enamel to draw multiple layers of fine brush, each painted a layer to be fired once, the more the firing, the deeper the pattern color, enamel master must be estimated in advance the number of firing, and each firing The impact on a variety of colors, in accordance with the original design color.
The traditional Geneva enamelling technique used by the count followed by the enamel finish, plus a clear enamel called the fondant, which makes the enamel look richer and more shiny.
Miniature enamel is not a mere technique, but an art of creation; the result is often an extraordinary painting. Works created with miniature enamel techniques are the best evidence of the skill of the drawer. Micro-enamel is a rigorous art that requires patience and unparalleled attention to detail, naturally appealing to those obsessed with top watchmaking enthusiasts. Earl has always been the pursuit of excellence, never miss any detail Earl artisans and enamel masters have been dozens of summer and winter cooperation in the art of enamel excellence. During these years of study and study, the masters have shared their experiences and achievements with each other, and have been focusing more on the search for newer and more enchanting techniques than ever before. The fruits of these efforts are reflected in the latest work of the Earl.
GRISAILLE
Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Tourbillon pocket watch combines miniature enamel and grisaille skills
Use a monochrome miniature enamel drawn in a gray or monochrome painting technique called grisaille in Western painting. The enamel master used only two colors of glaze for this work: a black glaze base, a Limoges white limousine, and a grand feu. Li Meng Japanese porcelain white glaze itself is almost transparent, to show the color, you must apply layer by layer of glaze; enamel on the seemingly gray part, then through the brush thin glaze made glaze brushed more Thin, darker the deeper. The dragons are drawn by the layer of glaze that is superimposed on it, and the thickness of the glaze is decided by the effect the enamel master wants to render. This glaze effect can be seen with the naked eye, because the dragon body is the sun pattern, protruding above the background, so it will show a very impressive relief effect. (Translation: Jingdezhen, Jiangxi, China have the same technique, saying "shadow celadon" or "blue white porcelain," approach is very similar)
